In the summer months in France, nothing says “refreshing ” lunch or entrée like a Salade niçoise. Especially these last few summers, where temperatures have reached unbelievable digits in the capital and around France, during la “canicule” or heat wave.
There are other popular salads and dishes in Provence, such as my favorite French tart or thin pizza called Pissaladière, also from Nice. A fresh-squeezed lemon or citron pressé would be a good refreshing beverage choice. Traditionally, though, a very chilled Rosé de Provence accompanies most summer dishes. Tchin! Tchin! Santé!
This humble salad was born in the early 19th century in the city of Nice, created by fishermen using a few basic ingredients on hand: tomatoes, anchovies, and olive oil, and was described as “simple food for poor people”. Today, this simple salad is world-famous and has been the source of much controversy among chefs, with much ink spilled on the subject! This salad is so popular that each chef or culinary school has their own version.
On one hand, we have the Traditional Purists, led by former Nice mayor and cookbook author Jacques Médecin, who state that an authentic Niçoise must feature exclusively raw, fresh summer vegetables (except for the boiled eggs). On the other hand, the Escoffier Method from Legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier, who popularized the French version today, explicitly includes boiled potatoes and steamed green beans. To a local purist, adding boiled potatoes or cooked green beans is considered un sacrilège culinaire!
In my home kitchen, we enjoy this iconic healthy salad served with an elegant arrangement of the ingredients on a bed of lettuce or romaine: canned tuna chunks, hard-boiled eggs, tomatoes, French green beans or haricots verts, black niçoise olives, and anchovies, of course. ( Also, I prefer the chunk light tuna for freshness versus the oil-based.)
Traditionally, un filet de vinaigrette can be lightly drizzled on top of the salad made with extra virgin olive oil, red wine vinegar, Dijon mustard, salt & black pepper ( very little salt due to the anchovies), or a simple blend of olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic would also do the trick.
Personally, I think this composed salad lends itself to so many variations, and I wouldn’t hesitate to be creative or use ingredients I have on hand. If I were to use potatoes, though, I would choose the baby red-skinned potatoes or the petite Yukon Golds. Some also use artichoke hearts, cucumbers, or red peppers, which sounds yummy. There are even variations with salmon, shrimp, etc.
I think the most important thing is that all the ingredients must be fresh, crisp, and seasonal. Also, for fun, I looked up some French Goourmet Brand Products for an authentic taste and to keep in your pantry, but this dish will work as well with local products. For example, if you don’t have the olives from Nice, then Kalamata olives will be a good substitute. Although I must admit that the best salade niçoise I had was, of course, in the South of France, with its Provencal sea air and warm sun rays that can be tasted in each delicious morsel.
Bon Appétit!
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